Notre Dame and Lola

I thought I would write a little bit about Paris as my trip comes to an end here and as my feet heal from so much walking.  I have Rome, Barcelona and the Camino in front of me, so I don't want to start all of that with blisters.

Yesterday was split into two parts: Notre Dame and Lola.  Notre Dame, now celebrating it's 850th birthday, is a structure meant to impress.  The enormous ceilings, colorful windows, dramatic religious depictions all add up to a stunning effect.  I have always thought that architecture is purposeful.  Large government buildings are large and imposing to invoke power and stability.  You don't see to many government buildings in wood frame.

I think Catholic Churches have the same kind of objective, although a slightly different message.  The buildings are designed to invoke power and strength and beauty and the symbols of the religion.

  

I saw many other historic buildings in the district along the Seine River, but my mission following Notre Dame was the Mariage Freres.  This famous shop is located on some small, unassuming street.  And although it is handsomely designed, it hardly looks like a famous landmark (I must not judge these things following a visit to Notre Dame).

The friendly shop manager asked me if I had any questions and I told him how much you loved their tea and that you had requested (instructed) that I come and buy some St. Valentin.  Upstairs was their lovely salon where you can sip tea and eat delicious cakes (powdered wigs are optional).  Downstairs is their tea museum that shows their sources in China, Pakistan and other Asian locations.

After Mariage Freres, I went back to the hotel for a quick nap, worked on some hotel reservations when I return to Paris for 2 days after the Camino and then off to meet Lola (Paul's sister).

I had lunch first in a cafe called Indiana where I think they cater to US citizens.  I had an Arizona Salad, but I doubt that anything resembling Arizona was close to the salad.  It was fine and I thought I had plenty of time to find Lola.

She had set the meeting place for "Place des Vosges", which any French child of 4 would know where to find.  I, however, was far more challenged.  Finding the Bastille was the first challenge--not too hard--but the Place des Vosges which is just a few blocks away seemed like a bridge too far.  I had to find the street, St. Antoine.  But for some reason, I didn't think the Saint part was so important.  What exactly did he do to deserve that title.  Just because the church thinks someone is a saint doesn't mean that I think he is a saint.

Anyway, no one knew what I was talking about and until I pointed to a map, someone said, "Ohhh. St. Antoine." And I quickly found myself with Lola.  I was out of breath and she was slightly put off (but quickly forgiving).

I have renewed sympathy for Amazing Race contestants who always seem to get lost.  If I entered the race, I would not last one week.

Lola took me around the tony Bastille neighborhood where we visited the home of Victor Hugo (although he was not home) and the residence of Mozart when he stayed in Paris.  We saw many museums and art galleries and antique stores and...it was so much.  And it was so great to have a local friend to show me the insights.

I said goodbye to Lola, grabbed a quick glacee (ice cream) and went back to Place Italie and back to the hotel.

I had another quick nap and then dinner at a local restaurant--wonderful duck with vegetables.  The creme brulee was delicious, but unwise.  I had some difficulties in the night, but nothing serious.

Roma

I was sorry to leave Paris.  It is quite an elegant city.  The most common theme that I found in Paris was "pride".  At a neighborhood level it means that they work hard to keep the streets clean and the gardens tidy.  At the municipal level it means that they have committed to a plan for the city which makes sense from a land use and transportation standpoint.  From a national level, they have all the monuments and national mementos that you would expect.

They have lots of people that they are proud of.  All of them no doubt deserve a street named after them.  However, it seems there are just not enough streets to honor all of the deserved.  So many streets honor great people for just a block or two and then honor someone else.

Rome has a different charm.  The most common theme is "chaos".  In Santa Cruz, the city planners no doubt wear lots of leather, are skilled with a whip and smile with pleasure when someone wants to develop in the city.  In Paris, it’s probably a conformity hobbyist.  In Rome, I think the city planners are like a group of small children who badly need a nap.

There is little apparent logic to land use patterns, and yet in the chaos, there is an intensity of life that invigorates.  And if they cannot achieve grand designs and thematic streetscapes, they will at least do it in style.  Every restaurant and every shop has an attention to style that makes a statement about how they value appearance.

My hotel in Paris and Rome are approximately the same price.  They are good 2 star hotels.  In France the room was plain, efficient, clean and small.   The carpet was not worn and the bed was comfortable (though small).  Here, the hardwood floors, high ceilings, marble bathroom, textured paint, handsome furniture and the crown molding suggest a little more attention to style.

I love my little balcony.  It looks on onto the neighborhood square.  Its chaotic, of course, in keeping with the basic theme here.  But the balconies are a little insight into the lives of common Roman people.  Some love plants, some dry the laundry for a large family.  Some have lovely painted shutters.  Others go with the weathered look.

After I arrived in Rome, as I waited to claim my luggage, we were treated to a little dog show.  At least 5 dogs came through at various times, handled by police, sniffing each piece of luggage.  I think that jobs in security can be as dull as dirt, but these dogs seemed extremely enthusiastic about their work.

After gathering my luggage, I went through customs.  It was a large set of doors with baggage claim on one side and ground transportation on the other side.  Off to the right was a little office in case you had something to declare.  I think the dogs take care of 90% of the problems.

I took a bus into Rome which took about 1 hour 20 minutes (note to self: don't EVER try driving in Rome) for 6 Euros and then, since I was hot, hungry, tired and felt a little vulnerable, I decided to take a taxi the 6 blocks from the bus/train station to the hotel.  The cost of the taxi was 8 Euros.  The last mile is always the most expensive.

The hotel was not available for another 2 hours, so I stored my luggage, and set out to find lunch.  I found a great little place down the street from the hotel and had a wonderful pizza.  The theme of this trip is adventure, so I thought I would try a little lemon drink that they offered for 3 euros.  It was a liqueur, so...

After lunch I went to an open air market where they sold mostly clothes but some fruits and vegetables.  It looked a little dodgy, so I moved on to another restaurant and just drank and read.

About an hour later I returned to the hotel, checked in and fell into bed.  Slept for 3 hours.  When I woke up, I decided to walk around the neighborhood and that is when I could not find my passport.  I don't know where it left me, but I suspect I met a skilled pickpocket at the open air market.

Thank you for quickly emailing me the copy of my passport.  I have my driver's license, the copy of the passport and some hope that the Embassy can issue me a new or temporary passport before I leave on Sunday.

Thats it for now.  I didn't have dinner, but the lunch was so huge, I don't think I could eat anything more tonight.  More later.

Citizenship

Today my attention rested on citizenship while I strolled the ruins of the Roman Paletino where Roman emperors lived about 2500 years ago.  The lasting buildings are a tribute to the design, materials and craftsmanship from ancient times.  Just below Palentine Hill is the Forum where citizens met for social, legal, political and commercial discourse.  I imagine that life for a citizen was pretty good.  For non-citizens: not so good.  I doubt that many citizens did the heavy lifting to build the grand structures.  That work was left to the non-citizens: slaves and freemen.

The ruins are just a shadow of the grandeur that was once Imperial Rome, but their concept of citizenship the model for many of our legal and political systems. So many quite literally fought to become Roman citizens, I was reminded of the significance of Lincoln who fought to give citizenship to all who were born in the US regardless of their race.

Today's debate is whether to build a "pathway to citizenship" for those who came here without permission which is a step beyond LIncoln's vision.  Much of Ancient Rome was build on the backs of non-citizens for the benefits of citizens.  I'm not sure that things are so different today.

This morning I began at the US Embassy to obtain a new passport.  Last night I had turned my room upside down and the hotel turned its offices upside down to find the passport, but to no avail.  

The Embassy is a grand palatial structure with Italian security.  There was a long line waiting to get in.  I went to the guard and said, "I am an American citizen and I've lost my passport."  He asked if I had a copy and when I produced it, I was quickly ushered into the Embassy.

One of the privileges of our citizenship is that when we are overseas and have a problem, it becomes a priority of the Embassy.  At home I am impressed by how little bureaucrats care about the people they serve.  In the Embassy I was impressed by exactly the opposite.  They quickly solved my problem, were completely kind and courteous.

It took about 90 minutes to get all the paperwork together, but I finally got a new passport.  I made my way back to the hotel and stopped at the front desk to pick up my key.  As I left, the clerk (who I had not seen before) said, "Oh, Mr. O'Toole.  Wait.  We have your passport."